Use the “CONTROL F” shortcut to search for keywords in your problems or questions. The text below is a mashup of emails, phone calls, and other experiences related to CNG car conversion and the proper installation. This should help with any troublshooting. Please email email@example.com with any other tips and tricks you have learned along the way! Ignore the misspelled words below… nobody is perfect. It is not in any particular order.
Attention SkyCNG network installers… please make sure your techs are on the same page with the following “Q and A”. This can alleviate calibration and tuning issues. Let us know if you have any questions!
SkyPRO and SkyPRO-HD TECH Kits
Engine running a little lean on petrol at idle? Even worse on CNG? Check MAP pressure on software… it’s probably higher than the 0.25-0.40 where it should be. Your manifold may have a leak in it (usually at a nozzle) or the vacuum nozzle is in the wrong place. Make sure the vacuum hoses are connected properly and the nozzle is NOT in the actual manifold runners, but rather in the plenum just after the throttle/intake.
Failing the calibration with red screen saying “Injector nozzles need to be larger”?? See statement above about being too lean.
If calibration gets hung up on a step for more than 2 or 3 tries, check connections and try again. Sometimes the second time is a charm.
Calibration gets hung up on STEP 4? 99% of the time this means your injector cutoff wires are incorrect. Verify with connections diagram. Remember, firing order and OEM injector numbers don’t matter. Simply identify Bank 1 where the cylinder #1 is, then proceed according to the connection diagram. Bank 2 will start with CNG injector #5 (in a V8).
Failing calibration? CNG injection times in the double digits during calibration? Your injector nozzles probably are in the wrong spot. Watch our video on it by clicking above library link.
Dashboard switch stuck on 4 GREEN lights? Make sure it’s not upside down. Green/Gray/Black wires should be on top. Also make sure software settings are according to the manual outline.
Weird dash light errors? It’s just the OBD getting freaked out when you first plug in your CNG system to OBD wires… or you plugged the OBD wire connectors into the wrong wire on your vehicle. Turn vehicle off and on again and the lights should be gone. Very common on GM and Chevrolet vehicles. Can also happen when pluggin a scanner in without unplugging the CNG OBD wires.
V10 Kit issues? Make sure you left the special “MultiTECH” cable attached after tuning.
Old Evo01 System Video Helps:
Manual Helps Below:
Install, Software Tuning and Driving Tips:
Reducer should always be vertical… not laying on back or front. Some angle is OK, but better at 90 degrees even if extra mounting time required.
Compensation bridge- proper placement after CNG filters. See image diagram in your original download folder.
Reducer pressure: only adjust with alan wrench when engine hot, on idle, and on CNG. Target is 1.8 BAR pressure. Always confirm good MAP pressure. Don’t get creative finding MAP vacuum source. Drill into the plenum (properly) before manifold and connect direct to sensor and reducer.
Proper pressure values on CNG: MAP pressure at idle around 0.30 and range up to 0.90 during acceleration. Reducer pressure around 1.8 (+/- 0.10) but shouldn’t drop below 1.6 under normal acceleration. If routinely drops below 1.5 check vacuum connections and hoses.
- – Autotuning/selfsetting produces a smooth MAP (blue grid). Sometimes it will not complete, but it’s not the end of the world. You’ll just need to smooth out the MAP manually. Using experience you can attain general shape in seconds and then proceed to tune according to timing and trim values.
- – don’t plug in your own OBD scanner while computer is plugged in as it can interfere with readings, make sure monitor is selected in the OBD tab in software… not adaptive.
- – Common to tune first idle in park, idle in drive, 1000 RPM foot on brake in drive, then road test… always starting with OBD connected and set to MONITOR.
- – Driver should be aware of any quick pulses and hiccups under CNG. Once MAP is 90% done and driving generally feels smooth, you can click “STOP OBD” and plug in handheld OBD scanner for additional reference. Monitor trims under acceleration, also cutoff return trims (when you let off pedal and then accelerate again). Use advanced strategies as needed. A good driver is essential. Starting out driver should use manual shifting and maintain steady load and RPM levels so tuner can compare values on the MAP on petrol and CNG. Look at timing and trims when tuning MAP. Keep OBD on monitor until the drive feels smooth… remember to use manual shifting and explore multiple levels with steady driving, switching back and forth comparing timing and trims on petrol and CNG
- – Timing injection of petrol higher when compared to the timing injection while running on on petrol? Engine is lean… opposite is rich.
- -We are emulating petrol! Compare lambda values as well for red flags… but this is secondary. Timing and trims are most important.
- -OBD correction colors show up when adaptive is activated, but don’t rely on the colors to tune MAP. Click “clear corrections” button to get rid of colors and get fresh start once you think the MAP is almost finished. Good idea to let truck cool off at least 30 minutes then one final 10-15 minute test drive at all speeds and conditions in ADAPTIVE mode before returning to customer.
- – Click Adaptive function before returning to customer. Save configuration and turn engine off to save to ECU.
Keep in mind that CNG prefers to be a little LEAN during acceleration; many times you’ll find a negative 5 or 10 value of “transient correction” will help performance. This takes away fuel during acceleration when negative.
Smart to activate “full load handling” to FORCE ON PETROL around 3100 RPM as well as setting injection time to about 8 or 9ms. Maximum field is OK at 12,000 RPM. This way the vehicle will switch to gasoline under heavy load for better performance hauling or going up steep hills, etc.
If driver gets buzzing switch error for “reducer gas pressure over limit” you should first make sure software and firmware up to date (remember to save the file BEFORE updating firmware!). Check reducer and vacuum pressures (yes, vacuum pressure effect reducer pressure) at idle with hot engine. If at idle the pressure is over 2.0 bar, or if you see a big increase in bar pressure above 2.2 bar) then maybe turn down the pressure with alan wrench quarter turn or so. If problem persists then you may need to replace the MAP sensor. Maximum bar pressure capability is 3.0 BAR.
ALWAYS make sure you save the file to ECU with ADAPTIVE function set on OBD tab.
USING THE ENGINE BALANCE FUNCTION: Under the SWITCHING blue tab in the software you will see the bottom right section of the screen is now dedicated to engine balance. Select 2 banks if a 6 or 8 cylinder engine. You shouldnt have to mess with the individual cylinders/injectors, but make sure they are assigned to the correct bank. Play with the injection timing to get it balanced. If you have to change more than 5 value then the installation is probably wrong… your rail-to-manifold hoses are probably too long, for instance. They shouldnt be more than 8 inches or so… shorter the better. 1. It’s best to have the OBD scanner plugged in so you can get the most accurate fuel trim numbers while making adjustments. 2. After selecting “banks quantity 2” then you will see the two boxes with Timing injection for both banks displayed… one box is kind of green and one is orange. 3. The Tinj values displayed here will likely not change much when you adjust the “CORRECTION SECOND BANK” value above. It is such a small amount, thats why. Also, If you see any changing in bank 1 timing injection value it means that the sequence of the injector connections is not correct… FYI. 4. While you are checking the fuel trims, the second bank is the only one that should be moving. This will help you achieve balance.
QUESTION: Why do I get a “check engine” light on 2011 GM vehicles? The OBD scanner code says my gasoline pressure is too high.
ANSWER: Some late model GM trucks give this code. Some engines have too much pressure on the gasoline pump system while the CNG is operating. You aren’t damaging the engine, nor are you losing any performance. SkyCNG does offer an additional “gasoline pressure emulator” that will resolve this. Cost is about $45.00 and it takes less than an hour to install. EXAMPLE: A 2011 Silverado 5300 engine would need this installed underneath by the fuel pressure sensor near the chassis. It is usually a purple, gray, and black wire you’ll need. Confirm all wiring diagrams first with manufacturer.
QUESTION: When is the best time to connect the OBD wires? Should it always be connected after the 29 step calibration settings/autotuning but BEFORE the tuning of the MAP and road test?
ANSWER: The best time to connect is after the autotuning, BUT you must select MONITOR in the software menu if you connect OBD prior to road test.
QUESTION: During MAP tuning road test, should the Air Conditioner be ON or OFF?
ANSWER: Both, if the map is correct the difference will be very little anyway.
QUESTION: When is it a good idea to activate the “Transient Correction” function?
ANSWER: Usually when the vehicle is on CNG it can be a little bit rich during the acceleration, with this function is possible to reduce the amount of CNG during the acceleration (to reduce the amount of CNG the number must be negative). We have found most engines prefer to run a little on the lean side while on CNG… just FYI.
QUESTION: Please explain why it is important to switch to/from PETROL during the road test/MAP tuning. Is it more important to see timing injection of gas emulated the same or to see the Fast Fuel Trim near ZERO? Most times the vehicle adaptive function is slow to respond and we do not see coloring on the MAP. If some technicians do not see any colors, then they assume the MAP is complete and accurate.
ANSWER: If the OBD map is white means the map is OK (or the different is less that 5%) TIP: we have found that most trucks in the US market take at least 15-20 minutes to really start affecting the MAP cells. Spend at least 15 minutes in traffic and freeway speeds before expecting to see RED or YELLOW cells popping up. The fast way to check the calibration is to check the petrol injection time… this takes experience. If the petrol injection time while running on petrol and petrol injection time while running on CNG are same, then the FAST FUEL TRIM maybe is not near to ZERO but is same as when running on petrol. It can be OK to see the Fast FT move around quickly, but focus on the injection times at different speeds.
ARE VEHICLES COMING BACK AFTER A FEW DAYS RUNNING ROUGH AND SPUTTERING?
Make sure the OBD wires are connected after 29 steps are complete, but the MONITOR selection must be used during the road test. If not, the OBD will interferes with the proper tuning. When you are finished with the road test and the MAP looks good, then switch from MONITOR to ADAPTIVE.
ARE YOU CONVERTING AN ENGINE WITH ADVANCED FUEL MANAGEMENT AND IT SHUTS DOWN SOME CYLINDERS WHEN CRUISING?
Make sure the red wire has steady 12 V power and make sure the RED/WHITE stripe wire is ONLY connected to a 12V power source (minimum to 10V) that operates “under key”… meaning it’s “on” when the engine is running and “off” when it isn’t. This is especially important when tuning a vehicle with active fuel management where the engine cuts out 4 cylinders at low RPM.
ARE YOU GETTING AN ERROR CODE FOR AN ENGINE BANK NOT BEING BALANCED WHILE ON CNG
Make sure there is no bent tubing or bad connections in the fuel lines. Double check that you did not connect the OBD wires too soon during calibration. It’s always a good idea to unplug the OBD and go through the 29 step tuning and autotuning again before you start ripping parts off the system. The adaptive function should handle variations in the engine bank fuel. Next, use the diagnostic tools in the software to make sure the CNG injectors are running correct. Replace a bad one if needed. Next, swap the CNG injector rails. If this does not fix the problem, then swap out both rails for new ones (very rare).
AEB Software vs New EVO01 Software by Tartarini- Engine Bank Tuning:
AEB system samples only the injection time of gasoline of cylinder number 1, then calculates the injection time of gas to apply on the same cylinder, then copies exactly the same injection time of gas on all 8 cylinders. Practically the result is an “average” injection time of gas used on every cylinder. Obviously, it is required often an adjustment of the second bank calibration, however this adjustment will be the same on all 4 cylinders of the second bank, therefore will always be an “average” injection time of gas repeated on all cylinders.
EVO01 system samples the injection time of gasoline of cylinder number 1, then calculates the injection time of gas to apply on the same cylinder, then samples the injection time of gasoline of cylinder number 2 and compares it with injection time of cylinder number 1, and increases or decreases of the same percentage of difference also the injection time of cylinder number 2, and so on with cylinders 3,4,5,6,7,8.
This means that EVO01 already corrects by itself the differences between one cylinder and the other one, not caring about which bank we refer to.
99.9% of the time the second engine bank will not need manual tuning… the error is found in the installation.
5 cylinder Engine-
Connect this way:
BLACK HARNESS/SLEEVE- On the first engine bank connect 3 cylinders/injectors using cables A (blue and black), B (red and black), and C (green and black). All spare wires will be isolated with tape or whatever.
RED HARNESS/SLEEVE- This is second engine bank. Connect 2 cylinders/injector using Blue and Red cables from this red sleeve.
Autocalibration stops in the middle of process:
A) The type of Injector selected is EVO08 but in reality on the car has installed EVO08G, so you must chose type of rail EVO08G
B) There is one circuit open on the cylinder that software recognizes as cylinder number 5 so the system is not injecting gas in that cylinder. You must check the wiring you has soldered between gasoline injectors and our cables on that circuit so that the software recognizes as cylinder 5.
C) The engine dies during autocalibration because the injection time of CNG goes too low until the CNG injector cannot open anymore. First you must solve problems of step 1 & 2 and then try again.
If Check engine light appears for reason of System too lean in Bank 1 than it means that the fuelling of the system on CNG is lean. When you reset the OBD check engine, you are simply resetting the OBD fuel trims, but then if the calibration is not proper, slowly the LONG TERM FUEL TRIM will move towards its lean side and reach its extreme position, turning oin the check light.
The autocalibration on your vehicle is problematic. You should do the calibration manually for having a better result.
My suggestion is to start from zero again by RESETTING ALL PARAMETERS, and then configuring again correctly the vehicle. Make sure that all signals are correctly received from the ECU because otherwise the calibration will be more problematic.
Once you have chosen in the software all necessary parameters, among which the most important are….:
2 engine banks
no lambda sensors connected (don’t connect Lambda sensor cables. You don’t need to.)
The correct RPM connection 1 cylinder or 2 cylinders per coil, or else rpm sensor (this is up to where you connect brown cable of RPM)
….and you remembered to turn KEY-OFF after having changed all parameters (Key off saves your choices on the ECU), you can start your manual calibration.
ONCE YOU OBTAINED A CORRECT CALIBRATION, THEN YOU MAY THINK ABOUT OBD CONNECTION AND ACTIVATION. CONNECTING THE CABLES AND ACTIVATING THE ADAPTIVITY FUNCTION ARE TWO SEPARATED ISSUES.
1) CONNECTING THE OBD CABLES. YOU MUST FIRST KNOW WHICH OBD PROTOCOL USES YOUR CAR (CAN STD 500, K-LINE,….ETC…) AND MUST REFER TO THE ATTACHED SHEET FOR A CORRECT CONNECTION OF OUR CABLES TO THE OBD PLUG OF THE VEHICLE. ONCE THE CABLES ARE CORRECTLY CONNECTED, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO READ THE FAST AND SLOW TERM FUEL TRIMS ON OUR SOFTWARE, AND THE PICTURE OF THE OBD PLUG ON THE BOTTOM-RIGHT SIDE OF THE SCREEN SHOULD STOP BLINKING.
2) ONCE OUR SYSTEM CAN CORRECTLY DISPLAY THE OBD FUEL TRIMS, YOU MAY DECIDE TO ACTIVATE THE ADAPTIVITY FUNCTION ON OUR SOFTWARE. SOFTWARE WILL BEGIN TO SELF ADJUST (MAXIMUM 25% SELF-ADJUSTMENT FROM THE INJECTION MAP YOU HAVE MANUALLY ADJUSTED) AND SHOULD ALWAYS HELP THE FAST FUEL TRIM TO KEEP CARBURATION CORRECT FOR AVOIDING SLOW TERM FUEL TRIM TO TURN ON CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.
OBD Connection- If your vehicle uses an old protocol not listed in the provided diagram, then just isolate the kit’s OBD wires. You will not have the benefit of OBD data function. Things will still work fine due your your other wiring efforts, but the speed of OBD will not be there.
Regulator ferrules install: Before connecting to inlet, you should connect ferrule on the pipe, distance about 2mm from end of ferrule to the end of pipe. Put a tiny bit of grease on the ferrule to make a nice connection.
Number of Banks selected in software must be correct. 2 banks on V8. you calibrate the bank #1 first, then move to the second bank. The EVO01 software will ask you how many banks, and if you tell it wrong then it will correct you.
When possible, simply connect the three OBD cables and not the Lambda. This is easier. Refer to OBD Connections diagram if needed.
RPM signal (brown cable) must be connected to the negative of one of the coils.
Furthermore, if this is a kind of engine that turns off one of the two banks in some condition, then the installer must be aware of which is the bank that will always keep working, and connect the RPM signal to the negative of one of the coils of this bank. If your RPM is not reading correctly, then you should change the brown wire to another coil on other bank.
Red/White power wire must be connected to an “under key” power source. This means when the car key ignition is turned “on” then you will have power running through the red/white wire. When the car key ignition is turned “off” then the power will be shut down. *If your engine offers a fuel economy function where it shuts down cylinders at low RPM, then make sure your red/white wire is not connected to a power supply that will cutoff when the engine shuts down cylinders.
Our regulators are Certified ECE 110R and ISO15500.
Our regulators are the most stable and durable sequential regulators in the entire worldwide market. Obviously this information may be criticized by competitors but this is the feedback we get from our customers.
QUESTIONS & ANSWERS:
1. The 3-wire bunch (Yellow/Green/Grey) are for some other ECU, type D which is not specified in the manual.
I should not use these. Right?
These 3 cables are for connection to OBD. See attachment pdf “OBD CONNECTIONS AEB”.
99% of the vehicles in the US are OBD, so always connect it (if OBD protocol is recognized. Read the attachment). It will help to keep an optimum calibration.
2. The single brown wire should be connected to the signal to the RPM gauge on the dashboard (tachometer)
Correct, but you may also connect it easy to the negative of one engine coil. What is important also is to set the software IGNITION TYPE accordingly to where you have connected this cable.
3. There is one pair of Gray/Purple wires, and another pair of Gray-Black/Purple-Black wires.
These are to be connected to the O-sensors……..ETC…..ETC……
Please read better first the wiring description found in the manual and after my extra comments:
Extra comments: The cables for Lambda sensors are not specifically designed for BANK 1 and BANK 2. They may also be connected one to the Lambda before and one to the Lambda after the catalytic converter, or else they can also be connected both on BANK1 or even BOTH on BANK 2. These decisions are up to the needs of the installer. What is important for him to know is that ON THE SOFTWARE the LAMBDA 1 is the one referred to Purple cable and Grey cable, while the LAMBDA 2 is the one referred to purple/black cable and grey/black cable. ALSO IMPORTANT TO EXPLAIN TO THE INSTALLER THAT HE MAY EVEN AVOID THE CONNECTION OF THESE CABLES (he may simply isolate them) SINCE IF HE CONNECTS THE THREE OBD CABLES, HE WILL BE ABLE TO READ THE LAMBDA VALUES ANYWAY ON THE SOFTWARE. ALSO, EVEN IN CASE HE DOES NOT CONNECT OBD, HE MAY ALWAYS READ LAMBDA VALUES THROUGHOUT AN OBD TESTER.
PLEASE UNDERSTAND THAT LAMBDA VALUES ARE NOT USED BY OUR SOFTWARE FOR ANY REASON!!! THEY ARE ONLY POSSIBLE TO DISPLAY FOR HELPING THE INSTALLER WITH AN EXTRA INFORMATION, BUT THOSE DATAS ARE NOT USED BY OUR SYSTEM. THE DATAS THAT OUR SYSTEM USES FOR ADJUSTING THE CALIBRATION ARE ONLY THE “FAST FUEL TRIM” AND THE “SLOW FUEL TRIM” IN CASE THE INSTALLER CONNECTS AND ACTIVATES THE OBD FUNCTION OF OUR SYSTEM.
THE REST OF YOUR DECLARATIONS AT STEP 3 ARE TOTALLY WRONG. READ CAREFULLY WHAT EACH CABLE COLOUR IS FOR. IF YOU HAVE OTHER QUESTIONS, I AM HERE.
4. And finally, I have one pair of Blue/Black wires with open ends, and another pair of Blue/Black wires ending in a plug which fits nowhere. What do I do with these?
And how do I wire the shut-off solenoid?
The one with open ends is to be connected only to a solenoid on the CNG tank valve, in case there is one. If the CNG tank valve is not an electric type, then simply isolate these spare cables.
The one with a plug at the end (the plug is usedonly for LPG where the solenoid accepts that connector) must be connected to our shut off CNG solenoid by eliminating the plug and connecting the spare cables to the solenoid.
- The Valvetronik / Start Stop Box: what exactly does this do, when do we use it? Valvetronic is the BMW trademark for their infinitely variable intake valve lift, which this X3 has. But the X3 does not have start-stop. We assume this box needs to be checked, although we felt no difference in smoothness when we switched it on and off.valvetronic means the throttle body is fixed/stable and is for BMW. DO NOT select the start/stop.
- Reducer Temp for changeover: Although it is set for 20 C we have seen CNG come on with it as low as 13 C. What does this do and why is the control fuzzy? We would like to have CNG turn on as soon as possible as long as it can be smooth.your injector is selected wrong. it should be tartarini EVO8-G and the reducer temp can be 40 degrees. the temp isnt a huge deal and 20 is normally fine, but move to 40 for this vehicle. Also you should select number of banks as TWO and Lambda disconnect is OK but make sure OBD is connected ALWAYS on these new vehicles.
- Enrichment in acceleration: How exactly does this work? Does it enrich all areas of the map? Does it enrich in a constant method (does it simply enrich by adding to the value for CNG trim), or does it enrich less at low rpm and more at high rpm? If I reduce it, how much is it reduced?Extra injection sense box MUST BE CHECKED and start the selector in the middle. if you are driving at stable speeds but still feel a little jerk sometimes, then go plus or minus to smooth it out. Enrichment acceleration is almost always at the far right so start on that side.
- Operation at minimum: As mentioned above, we are running on petrol at idle since when we use CNG the idle becomes erratic after being smooth for a few seconds. Is there an interaction between the BMW ECU and the Tartarini ECU strategies we are not accounting for?this should be Gas/CNG at minimum… but your issues on gasoline should disappear after other corrections.
- Modify Carb: The instruction manual states the map can be adjusted in 3 ways (percentage, linear, etc.). But what are the base units for this table? If I add “5”, what am I adding, and what is the new total? The version of software I have does not give any option except to write in a number. What is a large number, what is a small number. The instruction manual shows 3 digit numbers (160, etc), but I believe the only option I have is to reduce by +/- 50. What is the “Mazda Strategy”? If I use, for example, -5 on the Mazda box, how does it affect the overall map? What does the Mazda Strategy box do? What is the Mazda Strategy? Should we be using larger (negative or positive) numbers? What is a good “step” to be able to notice a difference in performance?just start this over at zero. keep the “leaning” at 0. Only mazda vehicles will need special attention on this.
- Without being able to trace AFR or Lambda in the display “save” feature there is not real way to overlay lambda onto the rpm and fuel/cng trim graphs. I cannot tell if or how lean we are, which means I am modifying the map blindly as far as afr. The red “lambda” does not come on until the vehicle is coasting, where it shuts off all fuel trim.
1. Is your regulator made in Italy? Does someone make it for you and just brand it for Tartarini?
2. Will these systems automatically switch to gasoline at a certain high RPM on the engine? We have some potential customers whose trucks travel on mountain roads and will lose economy if running on gasoline while driving up hills or with heavy loads.
3. Inside the rail, have you had issues with the springs/switch staying open under heavy usage? I am not having any, but a potential customer.
manufacture CNG systems since 1941. There is no other older Company than ours in the entire world.
We manufacture CNG pressure regulators, Rail injectors, Electronic units and solenoid valves. All of these products are made at our Company in Italy.
If your customer has seen our pressure regulator anywhere else it is because someone has bought it from us. The easiest thing is to ask them abour ECE R110 certificate of the regulator. In that certificate there is the name of the manufacturer (our Company obviously…).
Our sytstems switch to gasoline for various reasons in order to preserve the engine frpm failures. If our system switches to gasoline, it is not because RPM is too high or because load is too high. It is simply because the injection of gas is not enough and the engine coulod be damaged by working LEAN.
However with our software you can change many parameters to regulate or eliminate the switching, but installers musty be counscious of what they are doing for not damaging valves, catalytic converters and Lambda sensors.
3) Absolutely not. Our systems automatically switch back to gasoline also for avoiding exactly this problem. It is called CONTINUOUS INJECTION and it is very dangerous because it burns the injectors.
I am trying to figure out how to hook up the Tartarini ECU to the vehicle, specifically to the oxygen sensor. The Tartarini documentation states in page 14 to hook up the purple Tartarini wire to the vehicle’s lambda sensor, but does not specify which lead on the “narrow-band” sensor. The vehicle is using a universal heated sensor (not a UEGO or wideband sensor), and has 5 leads (heater, reference voltage, signal, and I believe 2 grounds).
In addition, I am wondering how the Tartarini ECU uses this information as it is not clear in the documentation either. Typical lambda sensors are effective only when very close to the 14.7:1 gasoline stoichiometric mixture ideal. Once we are running pure CNG, if we are using the factory lambda “narrow-band” sensor to control mixture wouldn’t we be running too rich? Stoichiometric mixture for CNG is 17.2:1 air to fuel. Wideband lambda sensors can read up to about 22:1 AFR. Would the Tartarini ECU be able to control much more precisely with this type of sensor?
You don’t have to connect the lambda cables . They are needed only in case you must run emission testing . In case you must do it , the correct cable to connect is the signal cable.
Manometer questions about not working properly: The selection must be AEB.
Check the wiring:
WHITE goes to WHITE
GREEN goes to GREEN
BLACK goes to GOOD GROUND (CAR BODY)
You want two regulators for large engines and heavy hauling: Here are some notes to assist the 10 cylinder install. It may sound a little weird, but after years of doing this our engineers have found it to be the most effective with 2 regulators (yeah I dont even understand a lot of their tricks!):
The software doesnt “recognize” and second regulator. After you install both regulators (just splitting the high pressure with a “T”) then you will need to calibrate a certain way for most efficiency. The second regulator is performing as only a backup to maintain steady CNG pressure during high RPM of this large engine. The ECU will control which does what…
1. Standard regulator output pressure is 1.8 bar (done with the software).
2. With two regulators, you will want one of them calibrated to 1.75 bar and the other calibrated at 1.85 bar.
3. After installing them, use a hose clamp to close up the output on one of the regulator units. Calibrate the other unit to 1.85 bar pressure.
4. Remove the hose clamp and then close up the output of the unit you just calibrated. Now use the software to calibrate the other regulator to 1.75 bar pressure.
5. You’re ready to roll.
I know we have spoke about this before, but I wanted to get your opinion again…At what point should I suggest a second regulator for 6 and 8 cylinder systems? Some mechanics I speak with think that every 8 cylinder and most 6 cylinder systems in the USA should have two regulators. What is your reply to that?
Maybe they are right, maybe they are wrong.
If they look at the power tables made by europeans they may be wrong because Japanese and european engines are different from the american ones.
What is important is that the outlet pressure of the regulator remain stable. For example, by checking the acquisition you sent us of the Mustang, the outlet pressure (YELLOW LINE) is always stable. The only time it fells is when the injectors keep very long time open because of mistakes on the map……but that is absolutely normal.
Anyway, if the installer wants a second regulator, why not selling it? It cannot be wrong in anycase to use a second regulator.
Problem is that installers think they are God on earth and in their mind they wrongly think it is always a problem of luck of gas. Problem is that they don’t have a clue about CNG usage on sequential engines. They still think on mixer type systems.